Subclass Magnoliidae ( Magnoliidae )
Order Nymphaeales ( Nymphaeales )
Family Barclayaceae ( Barclayaceae )
Genus Barclaya — Barclaya.
Literature mentions 4 species of Barclaya described or cited by several authors: longifolia, perrieri, motleyi, and rotundifolia. The temperament and demands of this genus go far beyond average. Currently, Barclaya kunstleri and Barclaya rotundifolia are also considered good species, though little is known about their aquarium cultivation. The plant features a well-developed root system and a short rhizome. The stem is shortened, with a rosette of simple petiolate leaves.
This plant is a solitary specimen. Plant in nutrient-rich substrate. Lighting should be diffused. Water temperature 26-30°C, dH 2-12°, pH 6-8. The plant prefers high iron content in the water. It releases substances that inhibit the growth of algae and certain plant species (Indian fern, Riccia, Marsilea, Rotala, some Cryptocoryne). The plant tolerates transplantation poorly. Excess carbon dioxide in the water causes holes to appear in the leaves. Propagation is by runners formed on a creeping shoot.
Two species of this plant are kept in our aquariums: longifolia and perrieri, though it is safe to say that perrieri has almost everywhere displaced its companion. It is less demanding, seedlings are stronger and grow faster, but perrieri rarely propagates vegetatively, with rare exceptions. Longifolia propagates vegetatively much more readily.
External differences between these two representatives: Barclaya longifolia has narrower and apex-pointed olive-green leaves with bright red undersides; their surface is matte and gives a rough impression, although the leaf is completely smooth. Barclaya perrieri has broad leaves with the red coloration of the underside showing through onto the upper leaf surface. The leaves seem thoroughly permeated with a luminescent red glow.
Barclaya longifolia needs to be specifically propagated rather than just maintained, because if it does not reproduce and has no offspring, sooner or later the adult bush will punish your negligence by disappearing completely and permanently. This plant can shed all its leaves overnight without leaving even a hint of a rhizome in the substrate. Salvation is possible at an early stage of the “disease,” when the adult bush begins to reject seemingly completely healthy leaves. Catching this moment requires immediately pulling out the entire plant, cutting off almost all the leaves, moving it to another bright spot without replanting, leaving it in the same body of water, and trying to find and eliminate the cause of the plant’s decay while waiting.
Longleaf barclaya — Barclaya longifolia.
“1” Synonym: Barclaya pierreana, oblonga, Hydrostemma longifolium. (Eng. — Orchid Lily). The plant originates from the tropics of Southeast Asia (Thailand, Burma, Vietnam), where it grows in shallow streams, usually forming monospecific thickets in small, permanently flooded areas. The plant features a short, thick stem bearing a rosette of leaves reaching up to 60 cm in length (no more than 20-30 cm in an aquarium). Of this, petioles account for 4 to 20 cm depending on water level and lighting. The leaf blade is linear, gradually tapering towards the apex, up to 50 cm long, up to 5 cm wide, with wavy margins, a rounded apex, and a cordate to sagittate base (rounded in young leaves).
Barclaya leaves possess a very beautiful silky sheen; they are olive-green with a pearlescent tint on top and green-pink to purple on the underside. A young leaf is brick-red, silvery-red underneath. The leaves form a rosette and grow upward without pressing against the substrate, allowing the red leaf undersides to be easily observed in the aquarium. The higher the water level in the aquarium, the steeper upward the leaves are positioned. In young plants, leaves reside within the water column, whereas in adult specimens, they float just beneath the surface. Red and neutral-green color forms exist in cultivation, hence the variety names “red-leaf” and “green-leaf”. In the most common variety — Barclaya longifolia var. red — the upper leaf surface is wine-red or brownish-red with a pale purple underside; in the rarer — green-leaf variety — the upper surface is olive-green and the lower is also pale purple.
“2” A somewhat capricious aquarium plant. Barclaya is quite demanding regarding care and must be constantly shaded. Barclaya is very thermophilic; aquarium water temperature must be between 25-28°C. A drop in temperature to 24°C leads to growth cessation and typically plant death, primarily affecting the root system. Raising the water temperature to 30-32°C or even higher does not negatively affect Barclaya growth. Barclaya requires plenty of space and soft water. The plant thrives best in very soft, slightly acidic water supplemented with peat decoction. Optimal hardness parameters are 4-15°, pH 6.2-7.2. Nevertheless, it grows quite satisfactorily, albeit somewhat slower, in harder water with a mildly alkaline reaction.
High oxygen levels in the water can split its leaves, leading to plant death. Any parameter fluctuations are destructive, and the larger they are, the more fatal. Barclaya does not require frequent water changes as long as it continuously receives sufficient mineral nutrients. Moderate lighting suits Barclaya best, preferably with an enhanced red spectrum component. It is best to shade the plant from direct strong light by placing it in the shadow of a large or tall plant. Floating surface plants can also be used for shading. In low light, petioles may outgrow the leaf blades. Daylight duration should be at least 12 hours.
“4” A plant with a tuberous or up to 6 cm elongated, slender, dark brown, fleshy rhizome. The root system is strongly developed; healthy plants have white, cord-like roots. A nutrient-rich substrate with bottom heating is preferred. A special heater should be installed in the substrate, as the plant reacts sensitively to cold substrate. A temperature difference of just a couple of degrees between water and substrate can be fatal to these plants. Substrate composition is crucial for Barclaya. The root system entirely assumes the function of absorbing nutrients from the substrate; therefore, substrate fertilization using boiled peatcrumbs is desirable. Its root system is extremely delicate and sensitive to damage. Coarse river sand and fine gravel should be used for the substrate.
Substrate siltation should be relatively low. In very silt-rich substrate, at the slightest sign of souring, Barclaya roots quickly perish, leading to the death of the entire plant. This happens very rapidly against a background of seeming full plant health. Barclaya first stops producing new leaves, and then older ones begin to detach from the rhizome. All its leaves suddenly tear off and float to the water’s surface. Inspecting the substrate might reveal no remaining roots at all. Avoiding such troubles requires constant substrate monitoring, timely cleaning, and plant replanting. If Barclaya begins losing leaves gradually, there is a chance to save the rhizome: it must be urgently moved into thoroughly washed sand closer to the light.
When cultivating Barclaya, the substrate around the clumps should be regularly cleaned using a siphon. However, this must be done very carefully, as damaging the root system can cause the plant to rot. Therefore, substrate layer thickness matters: if it is too thick, accumulated organic matter at the bottom may start to rot. A 4-5 cm substrate layer is sufficient for Barclaya. Planting in pots filled with clean gravel is justified. They should be positioned so that the upper rim remains above the substrate level, preventing detritus from entering the pots and slowing down siltation. The plant can be fertilized weekly or every 10 days with comprehensive mineral fertilizers containing trace elements. In densely fish-populated aquariums, only micronutrients need to be added to the water. The plant loves high iron content in water, so liquid fertilizers containing iron or EDTA are recommended.
“5” The plant is very delicate and highly demanding regarding maintenance conditions. Young plants are best planted in shaded areas. Large specimens make wonderful solitary display plants, while small ones can be planted in stepped arrangements for a period. In an aquarium, Barclaya looks much more spectacular when planted as a separate bush in an open spot. Plants receiving insufficient light (located at the edges and corners of the aquarium) grow slower. Plants positioned directly beneath lighting lamps are stocky and robust, with petioles 4-5 cm long and adult leaf widths reaching up to 5 cm.
Lighting also influences leaf coloration. Leaves receiving adequate light acquire a wine-red color, with young leaves becoming especially intensely colored and glossy. Leaves receiving less light range from olive-green to green. With its leaf shape and rich brownish-red color, Barclaya stands out remarkably among other plants, remaining visible even amidst red-foliaged backgrounds. Thin, long, and lanceolate leaves can be greenish, reddish, olive, or dark maroon, up to 50 cm long. A single plant can bear up to 25 leaves. Leaf development requires open space. Barclaya’s tender leaves are a delicacy for snails, so caution is required. Barclaya thrives best in aquariums populated by fish that do not damage its delicate, thin foliage.
This plant releases potent phytoncides, so algae rarely settle on its leaves. Following a period of active growth and flowering, Barclaya typically pauses its development, resuming growth and producing new leaves after several weeks. Replanting is discouraged during the dormant period. If a slow, restrained growth rate is desired in a small aquarium, planting it in a flower pot buried in the substrate is recommended; growth will be noticeably slower, keeping plants small for a long time. Overall, it tolerates transplantation well and often rewards it with even faster growth, provided it is not disturbed during dormancy. Plants reaching 30-40 cm tolerate transplantation less gracefully than young ones. If Barclaya cools below 15°C during transport or purchase, it will subsequently perish.
“6” The plant propagates vegetatively and generatively in aquariums. Vegetative propagation usually occurs when main growth points are delayed or destroyed. Normally developing plants rarely form shoots on the rhizome. Young plants form on Barclaya’s short rhizome, resulting in dense thickets around the mother plant. No more than once or twice a year, the mother plant with its abundance of basal offshoots is uprooted, divided into individual bushes, and replanted in the same body of water, spaced at least 15-20 cm apart. Replanted daughter plants quickly resume growth under satisfactory conditions.
Motley’s barclaya — Barclaya motleyi.
Synonym: Hydrostemma motleyi. Islands of Sumatra, Kalimantan. A rosette-forming rooted substrate plant. The rhizome and adventitious roots are well developed. The plant bears fleshy, reddish leaves gathered in a rosette, oval to round in shape, 10-15 cm in diameter. Petioles are thick, about 10 cm long. The leaf blade is nearly round, less commonly lanceolate, with a cordate base, 5-10 cm long and of roughly equal width, rigid, smooth on the upper side and hairy on the underside, especially around the veins. The upper side ranges from neutral green to reddish, while the underside is light olive, reddish, or rust-colored. Leaf coloration varies depending on maintenance conditions.
The plant grows rapidly under good overhead lighting. Sufficient natural lighting significantly enriches leaf coloration. Plants require very soft, acidic water and a nutrient-rich, loose substrate with an acidic reaction. Young plants emerge on long runners that can be separated and rooted in the substrate. The plant requires heavy fertilization, typically utilizing nutrient-rich clay. pH 7.0; dH 8.0°; T 22-27°C.
Cabomba aquatica, Cabomba caroliniana.
Gymnocoronis spilanthoides, Shinnersia rivularis. 
