How to make hiding places for cichlids.
1. Cichlid literature always recommends having grottoes, stones, driftwood, and various ceramic products in the aquarium. Driftwood is extremely important. These should not be just sticks or layers of wood, but good winding pieces of driftwood, preferably stretching from the bottom to the very surface. They should intertwine with each other, creating openings large enough for the fish to maneuver freely. Having just one corner crammed with driftwood is not a solution. It will be taken over by the strongest pair, while the rest will be left without shelter. The driftwood should intertwine along the entire length of the aquarium, closer to the back glass, so that enough space remains at the front for free swimming.
And these are not empty words. The less often a victim catches the eye of its abuser, the lower the danger of being attacked. However, another important point is often overlooked. The aquarium setup should provide not only for the convenience of hiding, but also for swimming – freedom of escape. There should be both “barricaded” and open areas, and the decorations should not have sharp edges so that the fish do not accidentally injure themselves while chasing each other. The presence of hiding places can significantly prolong this period, but it cannot make it infinite. Therefore, things should not be left to chance. If you see that a fish is being severely beaten, it is better to move it to another tank.
2. Stones placed in the aquarium liven up the underwater landscape and make it more natural. Some hobbyists use silicone glue to bond shelters for fish out of them. Stone slabs, clay shards, pieces of sandstone, and stones of various sizes can be used as building materials. Marble and limestone are convenient to use. When choosing stones, make sure they do not have sharp edges (fish can injure themselves on them) and do not contain various inclusions, such as iron (rust stains visible). Pieces of ore must not be used, no matter how good-looking they might be!
Many fish like to undermine stones and pieces of wood, arranging shelters for themselves underneath: because of this, an entire pyramid of stones can collapse if it is not firmly anchored in the substrate. Large stones and driftwood should stand not in the substrate (sand/gravel), but on the glass bottom. Hiding places should be combined with open spaces covered with pebbles. These areas are planted with species possessing well-developed, strong root systems and tough leaves. Among plants, Vallisneria, Nomaphila, Synnema, and sometimes Echinodorus are used. For greater effect, small clumps of ferns such as Ceratopteris, Microsorum, and Bolbitis can be fixed at various levels of the rock formations. Unfortunately, most plants grow poorly in the conditions required for African cichlids; moreover, many of them do not match the biotope.
When choosing stones, make sure they do not have sharp edges (fish can injure themselves on them) and do not contain various inclusions, such as iron (rust stains visible) or calcium (put a drop of acetic acid on the stone; if gas bubbles start to form in that spot, the stone must be discarded). Tufa, granite, and pebble gravel are free from these flaws. Pieces of ore must not be used, no matter how good-looking they might be!
Slate is a very hard rock known for its grey color (usually dark grey) and layered structure. It can be easily split into relatively thin sheets or plates with flat edges. Some contain layers of other minerals appearing as colored veins or layers on the side edges of the slate. Such slates are unsuitable for use in an aquarium. However, pure slate is an excellent neutral rock. From various types of slate – anthracite, gray, or light brown – you can build not only terrace steps, but also various structures with hiding places and caves near the back wall of the aquarium. They are especially loved by various cichlid species from Lake Tanganyika. Slate chips are sharp enough for a careless fish to sustain a severe injury. This must be taken into account when constructing rock structures.
It is recommended to build stone caves in a dry aquarium. If you are stocking large, strong fish, it makes sense to tie the stones together: while digging in the substrate, your pets can topple or destroy an unstable structure. Grottoes can also be made outside the tank by gluing them together in a dry state from the inside with silicone rubber (the seams will not be visible later). In this way, stone crafts can be connected at several points to the rear or side glass wall so that the entire structure holds more firmly.
3. In an aquarium with Malawi and Tanganyika cichlids, decorative reefs can be made of aerated concrete (foamed concrete). It is lightweight, easy to process, but has high buoyancy. To prevent your reefs from turning from underwater into floating ones, use silicone sealant to glue the aerated concrete structure to stones or an acrylic glass plate covered with a thick layer of substrate. You can also glue aerated concrete blocks to the back wall of the aquarium. The disadvantage of all these designs is that it is impossible to catch a fish that has retreated into a secure shelter.
4. Cavernous sandstone is essentially a natural constructor with which you can build real underwater reefs. If you decide to set up a freshwater aquarium in a marine style, sandstone will suit this purpose best. This stone can play a very important role in the aquarium for both fish and live plants. For a number of aquarium fish, it will serve as a shelter, especially for cave-spawning fish.
5. Pieces of ceramic pipes or flower pots are often used as such shelters, but aesthetically the aquarium loses a lot from this. These inconveniences can be avoided if the hiding places are made of acrylic glass coated with pebbles of various sizes. Since acrylic glass is easy to work with, an aquarist can quite quickly produce convenient shelters of any configuration – even multi-tiered ones. By the way, the material is completely harmless to aquatic organisms.
The shelter is glued from several pre-made blanks. This work begins with cutting pieces of the necessary size from an acrylic glass sheet and, if necessary, making future entrance holes. Mark the bending points with a marker and, holding the blank over a gas burner, bend it at the desired angle, using pliers or other tools for sharper angles. While it has not hardened, it can be given any shape. Holding the plate in the required position, bring that corner under cold water and fix it in place. Complete melting of the acrylic piece must be avoided, as this will not preserve its original size and will complicate subsequent processing.
After making the required number of blanks, they are glued together, having previously trimmed and cleaned the edges, as usual, with dichloroethane or another solvent. If the shelter is supposed to be “multi-apartment”, several small holes should be drilled in its walls before gluing to improve ventilation. After that, all visible surfaces are covered with pebbles, stones, pieces of driftwood, and other items depending on taste and the general design of the aquarium. The described technology is also suitable for making other items used in aquarium keeping.
6. Some stores sell artificial stones, including so-called lava, which is not true volcanic lava at all. Some artificial stones are amazingly similar to real ones, although the range of their sizes and shapes is quite limited and they are quite expensive. But they, like real ones, will serve you for a lifetime.
Trade often offers us blocks of porous rock of various origins. Bizarre structures can also be built from them. But since they are usually extremely heavy (which means fish certainly cannot move them), they should under no circumstances be placed on the bottom of the aquarium with point support only, without a cushioning pad. If the total load weight turns out to be too large, the bottom may simply crack.
Feeding cichlids. Variety of feeds and feeding frequency for cichlids.
Hiding places and shelters for cichlids. Part 2. 
