Aquarium Substrate.
The substrate is not only a decorative element in the aquarium, but also an environment where plants grow and necessary bacteria “live”. And since the substrate is a natural biofilter inhabited by various beneficial microorganisms, including nitrifying bacteria that participate in the nitrogen cycle by converting ammonia/ammonium into nitrite and then nitrite into nitrate, it becomes clear how important it is. It is best to use a chemically neutral, inert, fine 3-5 mm rounded gravel or pebble substrate. The inertness of the substrate can be checked by dropping acid (for example, regular vinegar) or a pH-Minus solution onto it. If the substrate is not inert, the acid will fizz. Any metal inclusions in the stones must also be excluded.
Natural pebbles with a dull color and a rough, porous surface are probably better than shiny pebbles. Shiny pebbles lack the desirable fractures and cracks of natural pebbles where bacteria colonize. You should never use stones or large pebbles. Not only because larger pebbles are uncomfortable for plant roots, but also because they endanger fish. Uneaten food gets trapped between the stones, decays anaerobically, and pollutes the entire aquarium, potentially killing the fish.
Special attention must be paid to the uniformity of the fraction (the same size of the pebbles), which will help avoid many problems (silting, clogging of the siphon slotted nozzle). The more uniform the substrate fraction and the better rounded it is, the less it packs down, and stagnant zones do not form in the substrate. Pay attention to the so-called colored (dyed) substrates — these are natural substrates coated with an epoxy resin-based composition.
Sometimes fake substrates painted with other dyes are found; they are very harmful to the aquarium. It makes sense to disinfect the substrate using bleach, — only then must the substrate be thoroughly rinsed. Actually, anything can be used as a substrate — from small glass balls to branded polymer-coated sand — the main thing is that it suits you and satisfies the requirement of uniformity.
After final placement of the aquarium on the cabinet stand, if planned, install an undergravel filter, a drainage pipe system, a bottom filter, etc. This must be done strictly in an empty aquarium. Lay out large decorative elements such as stones and driftwood (heavy objects must not be placed directly on the glass bottom or substrate; it is advisable to place plexiglass plates under them). The presence of terraces and other “landscape” decorations depends on your imagination. You just need to remember that over time, the substrate tends to level out. After that, pour in the pre-prepared substrate. It is recommended to put laterite or iron-rich fertilizers on the bottom, under the plant roots.
Install driftwood, stones, and other design elements according to your layout. Installation of large and heavy stone decorations is done directly on the bottom before filling in the substrate. To avoid glass damage, pieces of silicone tubing or a sheet of polystyrene foam must be placed under the stones. If you plan to use a nutrient substrate for plants, add it to the aquarium first, laying it in an even layer according to the instructions for use. Then pour the substrate into the aquarium according to the layout. If you plan to plant live plants in the aquarium, the substrate level should not be less than 4-5 cm. Arrange terraces, hills, and other landscape elements. Using some substrate from an established aquarium will significantly speed up the maturation process of your aquarium. Whenever possible, try to disguise the equipment located inside the aquarium.
Aquarium Plants.
Low-growing plants that do not clutter the view of the aquarium are best suited for the foreground. Their height should not exceed 15 cm.
Midground — taller plants fall into this category. They can be divided into solitary and group plants. Solitary plants require more space and should be planted separately. Group plants are usually more slender and look better when planted in groups.
Background. This section features tall plants that should be placed in the background and along the sides of the aquarium. When planted in the front, these plants will clutter the aquarium view and deprive fish of plenty of swimming space.
When choosing plants, consider the following:
First. If you have chosen fish that are incompatible with plants according to their maintenance conditions (African cichlids), or if plants serve as their main food source, plastic plants will be your best option.
Second. Plants, just like fish, require different water parameters. Some need soft and acidic water (*Aponogeton*), while others suit harder and more alkaline water (*Cryptocoryne*).
Third. Plants are even more demanding of light than fish. If your light fixture has only 0.5 W/L, light-loving plants may experience a lack of light and develop poorly.
Fourth. Plants are divided into easy and difficult to maintain. Stick to simpler plants for now.
Fifth. Plants are divided into fast-growing and slow-growing. Fast-growing plants are needed first and foremost when starting an aquarium (to prevent algae blooms). However, slow-growing plants will not require frequent composition changes in the aquarium later on.
Acquisition and planting of plants. Initially, it is better to acquire long-stemmed and floating plants that are unpretentious in maintenance conditions. Do not buy a large number of plants. All these plants are fast-growing (which is very important for the aquarium establishment process), and under normal conditions, you will soon even have to get rid of excess vegetation. Planting more demanding plants can only begin after the existing ones start growing actively and there is no rapid algae development.
Turn on the air compressor with an airstone designed for minimal bubbles, and do not turn it off at night. Do not forget to turn on lighting on the third day (at a rate of no more than 0.5 W/L) for no more than 7-8 hours daily. The danger of intensive lighting at this stage is that blue-green algae may outcompete the still weaker plants.
Before planting, it is best to disinfect plants for a few hours in a weak potassium permanganate solution. Then remove old leaves and dead root parts. For plants with a root system, trim the roots to a length of 2-4 cm depending on the species and specimen size. Make a depression in the substrate beforehand. Then, holding the base of the roots with all five fingers, plant the plants as deep as possible. Alternately opening your fingers and letting the substrate cover the plant’s roots, withdraw your hand. Fill the remaining depression with substrate and tamp it down slightly. Gently grasping the plant leaves, pull it upward until the growth point (the point where leaves grow from) appears above the substrate. Aquarium plants should be planted so that the growth point is not submerged in the substrate, and the roots do not stick out or bend upward.
Rootless plants can be placed floating in the water column or made to “grow from the bottom” by attaching a small weight (such as a stone) to their lower end. Floating plants should be placed only in areas where they will not shade light from other plants. Their location is easily restricted by a piece of silicone compressor tubing with connected ends. Large bushy plants are usually planted in the background. Leave enough space for growth for plants with sprawling leaves, even if the vegetation initially seems somewhat sparse. Small plants go in the midground. Rosette plants need to be planted with care so that the growth point remains above the substrate surface. The foreground is either planted with low-growing plants or left completely open.
The main problem when starting an aquarium is the high chance of getting an outbreak of nasty blue-green algae and hair algae. For this reason, liquid fertilizers should not be added to the water during the first month after starting the aquarium. CO2 injection can only be turned on after one month.
Acquisition and Introduction of the First Fish.
Water Filtration and Heating. Internal, External Filters. Water Heaters. 
