Which plants to choose and how to plant them in the aquarium substrate.
Aquarium plants are divided into three main groups: rooted, floating, and bunch plants. Rooted plants require special planting, have long roots, and are sold rooted. Bunch plants are a variation of rooted plants, but unlike them, they are sold without roots, in bunches, and are best planted in this form; roots usually develop as they grow. Floating plants live on the water’s surface and do not need to be planted in the substrate.
Be sure to leave enough space between plants — otherwise, the path of light rays will be blocked, and the plants will lose their lower leaves. Plants that produce creeping shoots generally begin to multiply and occupy large areas, so they also need plenty of space to grow. Leave enough space between neighboring plants so that the tips of their leaves just barely touch each other.
Plants with emergent stem branches, such as Myriophyllum, Ludwigia, Heteranthera, Alternanthera, and Hygrophila, are usually purchased without roots (planted as cuttings). Cuttings with elongated stems are planted at a depth of 3-5 cm, with each cutting planted separately at a distance of at least the length of a leaf. Leaves on the 2-3 lower nodes of the cuttings are removed to prevent them from rotting in the substrate. Bunch plants that produce side shoots do not look good if planted singly. This is especially true for plants with fine feathery leaves. Such plants are best planted by combining them into a bush.
Plants with small leaves are usually planted in bunches. Plant them in the substrate in groups of 3-5 specimens so that at least 3-4 cm of the lower stem is buried in the sand. Otherwise, there is a risk that the plants will float up. If a plant has buoyancy and floats, initially, to prevent large plants from floating, anchor their roots with small rounded gravel. Flat stones will hold these cuttings down so they do not float until they grow roots. For better rooting, the basal area of Cabomba, Limnophila, and Myriophyllum is coiled into a ring, buried, and weighted down with a stone. Bush formation can be accelerated by cutting off the tips, which quickly induces side shoots.
Rosette plants. Rosette plants grow in a “tuft” from a single point. Large plants with well-developed roots (Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus, Aponogeton, Sagittaria, Samolus) should be planted so that all roots are in the substrate up to the root collar. Choose them according to the size of your aquarium. The distance between small specimens should be 8-10 cm, and between larger ones 15-30 cm. Some Aponogeton species have 20-40 leaves and need more free space on all sides. The initial stem section located above the root collar should be at the surface of the substrate. All leaves, including the base of their petioles, must be above the surface.
Plants with shortened stems are planted so that the root collar is only covered by the substrate. For Cryptocorynes, the root collar can even stick out slightly from the substrate. All Sagittaria species should be planted very carefully, ensuring that the root collars remain above the sand surface. With good lighting, they beautifully decorate aquariums. Large spreading plants are best planted singly so they can spread freely. Naturally, large plants require a lot of space. Even when planting young, undeveloped specimens, their future growth should be taken into account. Large and dense plants will look better if planted in the background, with the light source coming from the top of the aquarium. Placed in the foreground, these plants will block the view of the aquarium and crowd the fish too much.
Plants that reproduce by runners are cut into individual plants that can be easily planted. These parts should be planted at some distance from the aquarium glass. Creeping plants should be planted in groups of 3-5 together, like small bushes, otherwise they look rather pitiful. However, each should be placed 1-2 cm apart from the other. Plants that do not increase in size are also planted side by side in bunches. Plants with horizontally branching rhizomes (such as Acorus) should be placed at an angle so that the parts producing shoots protrude from the substrate. E. paniculatus and E. tenellus are ideal plants for planting near the front glass; they quickly cover the substrate with a solid carpet. Plants that produce runners must also be given enough space to spread subsequently.
It is very labor-intensive to plant species with a horizontal rhizome (all Anubias species, Echinodorus major, horemanii, Aponogeton rigidifolius). They must be planted so that the lower half of the horizontally lying rhizome with roots is in the substrate, while the upper part of the rhizome bearing leaves is above the substrate surface. You will notice that the upper part of the rhizome is green, and it is this part that must remain above the substrate. Such plants may float up initially, so you need to weigh down the edges of the rhizome with small stones, especially in areas with strong root development. The long, horizontally positioned rhizome is additionally pressed into the substrate with a finger. Anubias should never be planted as the focal point of the aquarium. If its leaves appear very large, old, with bitten edges, or covered with algae, such leaves should be removed.
You can also plant bulbs and tubers of plants in the aquarium. These are representatives of the genera Aponogeton, Nymphaea, and Crinum. Plant them so that the tubers are mostly immersed in the sand, protruding by about 1/3 of their volume. Plant tubers should not be completely buried in the substrate; their tops must remain exposed. Wrap the bulb in filter wool before planting, leaving free space for root growth. Nymphaea is best planted with the bulb completely above the substrate, immersing only the roots. Bulbous plants grow very long and powerful roots, so they must be planted in a substrate at least 9 cm deep.
Often, when buying bulbous plants, we do not know how to plant them correctly, which is why they perish, but even more often we simply do not know how to care for them. There is a risk in the aquarium that continuous growth may deplete the substrate’s resources, and you will need to provide fertilization periodically. What does a rest period for plants mean? You can remove the bulbs from the aquarium for a certain period after trimming all the leaves. Place them in a plastic bag with damp sand and leave them in a dry, cool place to rest for 4-6 months a year. If you have planted a plant for the first time and are sure of the substrate’s fertility, but the plant quickly rots (leaves), it means the water acidity is unsuitable. If the plant grew for more than half a year and then died, it means there are no nutrients left in the substrate. Trim plants as close to the bulb as possible if they begin to rot. Furthermore, trimming tall leaves will reduce the likelihood of rot and make the plant more lush.
Epiphytic plants. These are plants that do not need to root in the substrate to grow. They take all nutrients directly from the water. These include mosses like Vesicularia dubyana (Java moss), Fontinalis, Microsorum pteropus (Java fern), and Bolbitis. Such plants grow best when attached to hard surfaces such as driftwood, rocks, and glass. In nature, they often grow in fast currents where the ability to attach is vital.
Placing floating plants on the surface creates a wonderful light filter for many plants that need shading and reduces the light flux if necessary. Floating plants should not occupy more than 1/3 of the water’s surface. To shade specific areas with floating plants, fence off these areas with stretched fishing line or transparent removable plastic strips attached with suction cups. The lower tier can be protected from excessive light by planting large bushes of spreading light-loving or long-stemmed plants.
Methods for planting rosette, small, and long-stemmed plants.
Invertebrates in a planted aquarium. 
