Aquarium for shrimp.
For serious shrimp keeping, it is better to choose an aquarium of a classical rectangular shape with a volume of 20-80 liters. Large aquariums 
are impractical, as observing a colony of such small creatures becomes difficult. In a shrimp tank, you should not use an internal relief background, as they can crawl behind it and die, unable to get out. The best solution is to use an external background, for example, a black or blue self-adhesive film. Small branches, twisted roots, and various types of exotic wood are great for a shrimp tank. Before placing them in the shrimp aquarium, they should be soaked for at least 2 weeks in clean, frequently changed water. A piece of coconut shell can be an interesting addition to the shrimp tank decoration. Shrimp love to graze on the wood fibers growing on it. In order to maintain good and stable water quality, as well as a favorable environment for the life and reproduction of shrimp, you should not stock the aquarium too densely. You should start with at least 10 shrimp, but 20 is even better. It is usually recommended to have no more than 2 shrimp per liter. Only snails and other peaceful shrimp with similar maintenance conditions that will not interbreed can be recommended as tank mates for shrimp.
If only floating plants, moss, and epiphytic plants, such as Java fern, are planted, the bottom substrate plays a secondary role. 
But if rooted plants are planted in the aquarium, it is best to purchase special shrimp substrate from a pet store. It will be inconvenient for you to catch juveniles among bulky decorative fragments. Thus, while fish rush from corner to corner when being caught, shrimp, on the contrary, tend to freeze, and such substrate will help them do so. The substrate layer in a planted aquarium should be at least 4 cm thick (otherwise plants will not grow well). There is an opinion that Cherry shrimp look better on black substrate, but this is a matter of taste. Annually, the old, expired substrate is replaced with a new one.
Shrimp are very sensitive to oxygen levels; aeration (at least at night) is mandatory. There is an alternative: either aeration or a filter (internal or external for large volumes). The most suitable and safe filter for newborn shrimp can be considered a sponge filter powered by an aeration hose or pump. Such a filter cannot suck in an adult shrimp or even a newborn one, and shrimp love to graze on the filter sponge, collecting detritus. If you use a pump-driven sponge filter, make sure it does not create a strong water current; for this, you can direct the filter outlet towards one of the aquarium walls.
Alternatively, you can use an external canister filter by putting a pre-filter or simply a sponge over the intake hose to prevent young shrimp from getting into the filter. When using internal filters, you need to remove the sponge chamber; otherwise, juveniles will get stuck there, which is fraught with losses during filter cleaning. All shrimp tend to leave the aquarium. Therefore, the aquarium must be covered, and holes for wires and hoses must be narrow enough so that no animal can escape through them. Any gaps found should be carefully plugged with a soft sponge.
Lighting. Ordinary fluorescent lamps with a color temperature of 5400K and above have proven to be optimal light sources in a shrimp aquarium. They correspond to the natural spectrum of the pre- and post-meridian sun. The use of these lamps does not provoke algae growth and provides normal, eye-friendly color rendering.
A heater is needed; shrimp can live in the range from 15°C to 31°C, and there is information that keeping shrimp for 7 days or more at high temperatures (from 30°C) can cause their complete or partial sterilization. In most cases, shrimp prefer a temperature within 19-23°C, which can be achieved in a regular apartment without a heater. The optimal temperature for a shrimp tank is 21-26°C. We remind you that shrimp are very sensitive to the content of oxygen dissolved in water, and when it is deficient (caused by elevated temperature), they begin to suffocate. Keeping these animals in water with a temperature above 32°C is generally unacceptable, as it can lead to protein coagulation in the body and, consequently, their death.
Shrimp prefer water with a neutral or slightly alkaline active reaction (pH 6.5-8.0). Brightly colored shrimp species, such as Bumblebee shrimp, display their bright coloration better in a slightly acidic aquatic environment. An acidic environment (pH below 6.2) causes the destruction of the chitinous cover. For the same reason, it is not recommended to keep them in soft water poor in calcium salts, which serve as the main building material for the shrimp armor. The fact that these invertebrates have to extract hardness-forming substances from the water to build their shell speaks for itself. In principle, this process also occurs in soft water, but best of all in medium-hard water (carbonate hardness from 5 to 10°dH). Shrimp are very sensitive to the presence of nitrogen compounds in the water, and therefore it is recommended to regularly change the water in the aquarium. Recommended water change regimens: 5-7% every day, or 35% once a week.
At least 4 weeks should pass from the moment the aquarium is set up. Otherwise, not all biological processes will be able to develop or will manifest themselves incompletely. Do not fill the aquarium to the brim with water. There should be at least 2 cm between the water surface and the upper edge of the glass. Otherwise, shrimp, especially immediately after introduction, can jump out of the aquarium and, naturally, die.
Think about a water cooling method. During long summer periods, the water temperature in the aquarium can rise significantly. Special fans are sold for small shrimp tanks, which, directed at the water surface, can lower its temperature by 2-4 degrees. Daily water changes and, above all, improving the oxygen supply to the aquarium will also make life easier for invertebrates during such periods. The method of cooling water by adding ice or cold water is completely unacceptable, as this can only cause a temperature spike and the death of the shrimp.
The opinion that all ornamental crayfish and shrimp originate from the tropics is erroneous. Many of them inhabit only subtropics, prefer coolness, and are accustomed to seasonal climate changes. For example, in some streams of Hong Kong, the water temperature drops to 14°C in winter and rises to 24°C and above in hot summer months. Therefore, when catching wild specimens for their subsequent keeping and breeding, one should consider that animals should not be kept at the same temperature all year round. But cultured animals that have been bred in aquariums for many generations eventually lose their attachment to natural rhythms and successfully reproduce even at constantly elevated temperatures.
Shrimp are practically omnivorous; it is difficult to name a food they would ever refuse. Shrimp should be fed no more than once a day (start feeding them every other day), giving an amount of food that they can eat in a maximum of 2-3 hours. When choosing food, preference should be given to specialized shrimp foods or foods for bottom-dwelling herbivorous fish. Specialized foods most fully meet the nutritional requirements of shrimp and can remain in the water for a sufficiently long time without spoiling it. You can diversify the shrimp’s diet with slightly boiled vegetables. Vegetables should not be kept in the water for a long time. They should be removed in about an hour to prevent water pollution.
Dry tree leaves can be placed in the aquarium. Oak, beech, or alder leaves are best. Such leaves are a source of valuable food for crustaceans, cleaning their digestive system and helping to get rid of parasites. In addition, they release a certain amount of tannins and humic acids into the water, the presence of which has a positive effect on shrimp. Instead of leaves of domestic trees, you can also use Indian almond leaves. They not only improve water quality but also have a certain antiseptic effect and protect aquarium inhabitants from diseases. Since the leaves are systematically eaten by shrimp, they need to be replaced with new ones after some time.
One or two days a week should be fasting days for shrimp; they are not fed during this time. They also easily tolerate “fasting” (when you go on a business trip or vacation), feeding on algae and decaying plant parts. The main thing is to avoid overfeeding. Overfeeding shrimp is a very common problem even among advanced aquarists.
Shrimp love what we perceive as “dirt” and what is actually detritus (Latin for “carcass, sediment”). Detritus is dead organic material formed from dead organisms, such as plant and animal fragments processed by bacteria and fungi. Filamentous algae often appear in a new aquarium, which, however, is good for shrimp. It should be understood that the water of a newly set up aquarium contains a negligible amount of bacteria necessary to neutralize harmful substances. Such an aquarium still needs to “mature”.
What does this mean? It’s very simple – colonies of bacteria capable of processing organic pollution, such as fish feces, dead plant parts, leftover food, and the like, must form in the container. You can facilitate the “maturation” of the aquarium by planting fast-growing aquatic plants in it, which immediately begin to absorb harmful substances, extracting them from the aquarium water and substrate, including nitrogen and phosphorus salts, which are most often responsible for excessive algae growth. There is a sufficient assortment of so-called starter bacterial cultures on sale that also significantly shorten the “maturation” phase. Oak leaves or alder cones have a positive effect.
Setting up a shrimp aquarium. Continuation.
Shrimp body structure, How shrimp are structured. 
