Dwarf shrimp in the aquarium.
Dwarf shrimp generally include all species of the families Caridina and Neocaridina. However, within this group, there are significant differences in size among species, so this name does not apply to all of them. While some species remain only 3 cm long, others can reach 7 cm and more. These two groups exhibit different ways of reproduction.
Animals of the simple type produce planktonic life stages (zoea), free-swimming larvae, which is why they produce a large number of eggs. This reproduction cycle requires increased salinity. The larvae hatching from them enter fresh water and are carried by the current into the sea. A stay in seawater is necessary for their further development. Then they return to a freshwater body and spend the rest of their lives there.
Evolutionarily more advanced shrimp spawn a significantly smaller number of eggs, but these eggs are much larger. Larval development occurs directly within the egg, so fully formed mini-shrimp emerge from the eggs. These shrimp are permanent residents of freshwater bodies. Keeping and breeding grade C or B shrimp is much easier than keeping and breeding higher grades.
The biggest mistake a beginner “shrimp keeper” makes is releasing newly acquired pets into their general community aquarium, hoping everything will be fine. However, shrimp constantly hide because fish try to “taste them” and terrorize them in every possible way, and shrimp usually die quickly either from stress or in the mouths of fish. Even if you do not notice it, most fish will not miss the opportunity to nip at or otherwise harm a shrimp. Shrimp are quite interesting creatures and deserve to be kept in a separate aquarium dedicated solely to them.
Only when kept in an aquarium separate from fish or with suitable neighbors (for example, fish that will not threaten their lives or the lives of newborn shrimp) do shrimp thrive and even reproduce. Suitable neighbors are considered to be tiny Boraras brigittae (Rasbora brigittae) fish. These fish are so small that they cannot harm newborn shrimp, while at the same time they perfectly enliven the shrimp aquarium.
So, what kind of aquarium can be considered suitable for keeping dwarf aquarium shrimp? If the aquarium is too small, it will be difficult for you to keep water parameters stable and suitable. If the aquarium is too large and you keep a small handful of shrimp in it, you will most likely see them very rarely. Therefore, in a large-volume aquarium, it is better to keep an appropriate number of shrimp so that it remains attractive to the observer. The shrimp aquarium must be securely covered with a lid, as shrimp are prone to escaping and can jump out of the aquarium.
The choice of substrate is up to you; any type of neutral substrate or sand will work. On a light substrate, brightly colored shrimp lose some of their color. Perhaps this is just a contrast effect, where red on a black background looks brighter than red on gray, but regardless, a black substrate is still better. Even a thin layer of substrate will work; a sufficient number of microorganisms will develop in it, serving as food for the shrimp. It is believed that dry oak leaves are absolutely essential in a shrimp tank, and often their absence is the reason why shrimp do not reproduce.
Leaves and the organisms living on them serve as a food base for shrimp, and they frequently graze on them. This type of feeding is very close to natural and should make up the bulk of their diet in the aquarium. When the leaf is completely “consumed,” which can take several weeks or months, simply replace it with a new one.
When collecting leaves, be careful in choosing the collection site; it should be an area unpolluted by industrial waste. Otherwise, the leaves may contain substances harmful to shrimp. Dry, brown leaves are suitable for collection. Do not use fresh, green leaves, as they can release toxic substances into the water. Soak the collected leaves in a bucket of water until they sink and lie at the bottom (this takes 2-3 days) and place them on the bottom of the aquarium. Leaves of other tree species may also work for this purpose, but oak leaves have already proven to be a good choice.
For example, Indian almond leaves are also used, but they are denser, making it harder for shrimp to gather food organisms from them, and they require prolonged soaking to release tannins. Most shrimp do not tolerate excessive tannin content in the water, so soaking the leaves is a very important step. It is advisable to have a piece of driftwood in the aquarium; shrimp love to graze on it.
Aquarium plants also play an important role in a shrimp aquarium. Fast-growing plants such as Egeria densa can be used because they effectively “consume” nitrates and phosphates from the aquarium water. However, experience shows that using only such plants has the opposite effect on the micro-fauna of the aquarium, which shrimp feed on.
Fast-growing plants compete very effectively with many types of algae, biofilms, and other microorganisms that are usually present in the aquarium and form a very important part of the shrimp’s menu, thus turning the aquarium into a biologically “dead zone”. Plants absorb both nutrients and light, which microorganisms need to survive and thrive.
In aquariums where only Najas grows, shrimp do not graze on its leaves because microorganisms are practically absent on them. Thus, despite all the advantages of fast-growing plants, they should be complemented with slow-growing ones. Plants such as Java moss and Java fern can be ideal plants for shrimp aquariums.
Java moss (or any other similar moss) can be considered particularly suitable for shrimp tanks; it serves as an excellent grazing ground and provides many hiding places for adult and newly hatched shrimp. In general, Java moss is essentially a “microorganism factory,” and shrimp can always find food in its thickets. During molting, after shedding their shell, they need hiding places. Plants and decor elements are suitable for this purpose, but the best shelter for molting shrimp is moss thickets.
Dwarf shrimp do not eat live plants. Essentially, all dwarf shrimp are welcome guests in a planted aquarium because they feed on algae fouling on plants and decompose leaves at the bottom of the aquarium. It is important not to overfeed the shrimp. Otherwise, water quality will suffer, which will negatively affect the shrimp. Any fish food, flakes, or pellets will do for feeding shrimp. Do not feed shrimp with food containing a high amount of protein.
Food high in iron and minerals will be more beneficial, helping shrimp acquire and maintain a bright shell coloration. Regular feeding with young spinach leaves once a week is desirable. After 2 hours, leftovers should be removed from the aquarium (this applies to any food you feed the shrimp). Try to feed your shrimp a varied diet. If you feed your shrimp once every few days, the shrimp will be happy. Oak leaves, algae, and microorganisms make up the bulk of their diet.
It is not recommended to add plant fertilizers to a shrimp aquarium. For a long time, the consequences of fertilization will not be apparent, but fertilizers can accumulate in the water over time. Since shrimp are very sensitive to organic pollution in the water (which plant fertilizer essentially is), their general reaction to fertilizers is negative.
Fertilizing plants to accelerate their growth is not worth the risk of losing an entire shrimp population. You can add Easy-Life Pro Fito plant fertilizer to the shrimp tank. It promotes strong, healthy, and lush plant growth. Free of nitrates and phosphates, it contains no copper or nitrates. Dosage for a shrimp tank: 5 ml per 100 liters of aquarium water per week.
Shrimp are not very demanding regarding the chemical composition of the water. Neutral or slightly acidic water of medium hardness will suit them. However, they are very sensitive to oxygen deficiency, so the water must be aerated. For the well-being of shrimp in the aquarium, water changes must be performed regularly. Experience shows that about 25% of the water should be changed weekly, with the exact amount depending on the shrimp population density.
Also, you should not change water too often or in large quantities, as this can negatively affect the water parameters in the shrimp tank. When changing water, a chloramine neutralizer must be added to tap water if chloramine is present in your tap water; otherwise, shrimp deaths are inevitable. Shrimp are extremely sensitive to chloramine, so it must be removed from the water!
Chloramine does not evaporate from water, unlike chlorine, so letting water sit will not work! Similarly, shrimp cannot tolerate copper sulfate, which is part of some fish medications. If you want to add medication to a shrimp aquarium, check its composition beforehand.
If the room temperature drops below 20 degrees, a small heater should be installed in the aquarium. If the temperature stays within 20-26°C, you can do without a heater, as shrimp do not require high temperatures. The temperature should not exceed 28°C, because high temperatures cause stress in some species. Sudden fluctuations in water temperature in the aquarium are unacceptable.
Finally, I would like to talk about filters. The most suitable and safest filter for newborn shrimp is considered to be a sponge filter powered by an aeration 
hose or a powerhead. Such a filter cannot suck in an adult shrimp or even a newborn one; shrimp love to graze on the filter sponge, gathering detritus. If you use a powerhead-driven sponge filter, make sure it does not create a strong current in the water; you can direct the filter’s outlet towards one of the aquarium walls to prevent this.
Alternatively, you can use an external canister filter by putting a pre-filter or simply a sponge on the intake hose to prevent young shrimp from getting into the filter.
Causes of freshwater shrimp death in aquariums.
Keeping and care for the “Red Cherry shrimp”. 
