Planning the Dutch underwater garden.
It is very important to maintain a sense of harmony and simplicity, and for this reason, the Dutch aquarium uses no more than one plant species for every 10 cm of length. Thus, plant groups are clearly defined and have a manageable habit, meaning they do not overgrow and do not shade each other.
The rule of thirds. Dividing the aquarium into three equal parts to create large organizing centers – focal points. Red plants, large-leaved plants, driftwood, or stones are solitaires; they are planted or placed precisely in strong points (in the first third and the second third of the aquarium). Accent solitaire plants or driftwood/stones should never be placed in the so-called “dead point” — the geometric center of the aquarium.
The emotion experienced by the viewer when looking at such an aquarium is very important. Color, leaf texture, and differences in plant height when looking at the aquarium serve as a topographical map along which the viewer’s gaze travels. The “path” created by the scaper must be engaging and interesting. After all, what is before us is a multi-level “wall of plants,” and it is very important to make it far from boring.
There is a very good artistic technique for this — using contrast. To better emphasize these contrasts, plant groups are planted with barely noticeable gaps, arranging ascending rows of plants (the Leiden street). Such techniques help to add and emphasize the depth of the underwater landscape. In addition, some plants with delicate, lacy foliage (e.g., Ludwigia arcuata, Zosteriella dubia) are sometimes planted in front of dense thickets. This effect of “transparency” and partial overlapping also creates a sense of depth and volume. When creating contrasting plant groups, it is important not to get carried away and lose the sense of balance. Another condition: the Dutch aquarium does not allow more than 20% of open (empty) space, meaning more than 80% of the aquarium volume must be filled with healthy plants.
The aquarist’s minimal aspiration to have at least one well-planted decorative aquarium with a harmoniously functioning established biological regime requires the enthusiast to realize that the result itself will not be achieved immediately. Its decorative arrangement with plants, the internal placement of roots, driftwood, stones, or pieces of cork bark requires initial placement in the right spots, after having first drawn a layout diagram of them as decorations and thoughtfully planned the locations for group and central solitary plants. For the correct combination of plant groups, we must know and be able to distinguish large, medium, small, and very small aquarium plants. The same applies to the type of leaves, their coloration, and growth rate, which must be considered when placing plants in the community of your body of water.
Selection and planting of plants in a Dutch aquarium.
The most troublesome task is the initial planting. Plant sets for a Dutch aquarium usually consist of 20–25 species. Large-leaved plants should account for one or two species. The rest are small-leaved, usually planted in small groups, each group consisting of a single plant species. These are plants that are not difficult to cultivate. If you have enough plant material for planting, there should be no problem making it look beautiful so that it becomes the pride and decoration of the interior. First of all, it is necessary to carefully think through the species composition of the aquarium garden, plan the planting scheme, and even craft at least a rough paper model — preferably full size. This is a good practice, but not always feasible given local conditions. The assortment of plants in the pet market is not yet as wide as in the West.
It often happens that seemingly well-thought-out plans collapse just because a couple of certain plants that were supposed to form the center of a particular composition were not available for sale at the right time and place. Substitutions have to be made. And this is where experience plays an important role. A beginner usually relies only on appearance, while a more experienced aquarist also takes into account the plant’s biological characteristics — growth rates, the shape of the adult bush, its behavior when propagated by cuttings, etc. Therefore, without a certain level of knowledge, creative experience, intuition, and improvisation, no schemes or models will help.
And generally, it seems to me that the schemes for setting up Dutch-type water bodies given in aquarium literature are needed only as certain guidelines. They are worth looking at, but should not be blindly copied. Otherwise, the creative process of composing an underwater garden will turn into a purely mechanical, tedious, and exhausting process. After all, we are talking about dozens of plants.
In general, the principle of the Dutch aquarium is dense planting. Plants should be chosen to be compatible with each other. Preference is given to plants that contrast with each other in color, size, and leaf shape. It is not recommended to create very contrasting patches of plants: it is better if color transitions are smooth, with darker plants in the background and lighter ones in the foreground. The diversity of their color palette will create a good contrast in the layout, while differences in shapes and sizes will, in turn, help avoid symmetry. Asymmetrical placement creates the impression of variable depth, so the tallest plants are placed in the background, and smaller ones in the front or in terraces in the middle layer.
In general, the formation of the flora in a Dutch aquarium should be based on the principle of contrast: large leaves and small leaves, oval leaves and lanceolate leaves, large leaves setting off smaller ones, colors standing out against each other. Plants with diverse leaf shapes are used for planting; at least neighboring groups should noticeably differ in this feature. For example, Limnophila and Myriophyllum should not be planted side by side, as their leaf blades look very similar — thin and deeply dissected. Therefore, groups of Alternanthera with large lanceolate leaves and Ludwigia with oval leaves should be placed between such plants.
Plants that form large leaves and branch well are planted near the back or side walls of the aquarium, framing the edges of our display. Single and tall plants are placed in the tank in such a way that their appearance enhances the decorative nature of the composition. The foreground is left predominantly for small plants. Medium-sized plants are located in the middle of the aquarium. The smallest plants are planted near the front glass of the display. When arranging a Dutch aquarium, not only stem plants can be used.
If there is enough space between the water surface and the light fixtures, the water body can be decorated with floating plants. However, there should not be too many of them so that they do not shade 
the space underneath. Plants placed near the front glass in the right and left corners can be of medium height or tall, creating a living frame for the underwater scene. Vallisneria and Myriophyllum are best suited for these purposes: even creeping along the surface, their leaves do not lose their decorative appeal. The composition formed in the foreground must be executed with special care. To enhance the visual effect, only the species making up the Leiden street (no more than 2 species) should be mixed or duplicated. Thus, Echinodorus tenellus is very often planted next to or together with groups of small Cryptocoryne.
Plants of the same species are planted in dense groups so that the viewer pays attention not to individual stems, but to the thickets as a whole. The best result is achieved if similar plants are grouped together and these groups remain separate from each other, rather than allowing them to gradually intermix and thereby disrupt the ensemble. To prevent this, fast-growing plants must be constantly pruned and trimmed, ensuring they do not shade each other or the smaller plants growing beneath them.
Many aquarists believe it is best to plant large-leaved plants in low pots hidden in the substrate. On the one hand, this organizes the development of the root system and makes the interior space of the aquarium more aesthetic. Furthermore, it greatly facilitates the work of dividing the plant bush. It is good if your plants are slow-growing — this eliminates overly frequent interventions in the aquarium composition, which almost always threaten to disrupt it.
They are planted in tiers, creating a relief pattern. Stem plants are placed along the back wall and sides, while a beautifully shaped bush, such as an Echinodorus or a red-leaved Nymphaea, is placed in the center. Shady corners are reserved for plants that do not require bright lighting. To emphasize the volume of the aquarium, plants are often planted in tiers sloping down toward the front wall, with two- and three-step terraces. The terraces should be of varying heights and sizes. In this case, a larger number of species can be placed in the background, including those that usually do not reach the water surface.
When planting the aquarium, numerous possibilities and options arise for arranging our pets, and each aquarium in a sense reflects your tastes and attachment to particular landscapes that you create yourself. The Dutch apply several planting principles. Currently, the most widespread is the “free tops” principle. Plant groups are planted so densely that when viewed from above, only their tops are visible. This is also achieved by shaping the plant crowns (Ammania, Cabomba, Rotala) so that the tops of plants from different groups are at the same level. The arrangement of plant groups is based on the principle of “golden lines” and “strong points.” The “golden line” is a distinctive wall of plants where taller plants are located behind shorter ones (preferably directed from right to left).
To break the monotony of the layout, one or two “strong points” are arranged. A large plant that noticeably differs from the others is planted in the so-called strong point. They introduce asymmetry into the aquarium and thereby attract attention. A large plant is recommended for each “point”; it can be a red Nymphaea, a Barclaya, or a large bush of Echinodorus horizontalis or Echinodorus uruguayensis. It is better if it contrasts in color with the surrounding plants. The rest are arranged on terraces following the “free tops” principle, with tall plants positioned along one of the “golden lines.” The selected species should not form floating or emergent leaves. A piece of driftwood can also be placed in this spot — the goal here is to draw the observer’s gaze.
How to determine where the strong point should be? The following calculation is used for this. Suppose we have an aquarium with length “A” and width “B”. Let’s draw a diagram observing the necessary proportions. For the calculation, we need to determine point “C,” from which a circle with radius = “A” is drawn. At the intersection of the circle with the line “BC,” we get point “C”. We draw a new circle with radius “BC” and find its intersection with the aquarium line “E,” from which we raise a perpendicular. Similarly, we determine point “A” (circle radius = “B”) and perform all the same operations. As a result, we get point “F” and draw a perpendicular from it. The intersection of the two perpendiculars will be the location of the strong point “Z”. If the calculations are correct, it will lie on the diagonal connecting corners “B” and “D” (the so-called golden line). The second “strong point” is a mirror image of the first.
Vertical lines formed by plant stems and leaves predominate in the Dutch aquarium. To enhance perspective and emphasize space in a limited volume — which seems quite small due to light refraction in water — some medium-height plants are planted along a diagonal line, the so-called “Leiden street.” Plants positioned in terraces create Leiden streets that emphasize the depth of the underwater landscape.
In a Dutch aquarium, a group of plants distinguished by the shape or color of their leaves is planted in a diagonal line that cuts through the solid wall of background thickets. The “Leiden street” ends with something noticeable — a stone, a piece of driftwood, a large solitary plant located at the strong point. The remaining plants are arranged on terraces, adhering to the “free tops” principle, with tall plants positioned along one of the “golden lines.”
Plants for planting. Fishes for the Dutch aquarium. Aquarium care.
What is a Dutch aquarium? Setting up an aquarium. 
Last changes and additions were made on August 26, 2012.
