Aquarium filter care. Cleaning the aquarium filter.
Filters require maintenance. For example, if detritus is allowed to accumulate in a mechanical filter, it breaks down into ammonia, defeating the primary purpose for which the filter is intended. A prerequisite for the normal operation of any type of filter (especially internal ones) is their regular cleaning. The fact is that internal filters only accumulate dirt, but it is not removed from the general circulation and continues to decompose! Air filters are usually small in size.
Their power, and consequently their filtering capacity, is very small; they need to be cleaned quite often. Similarly, the efficiency of a biological filter decreases as it becomes clogged. The first and main thing an aquarium filter needs is periodic cleaning of the filter media from the dirt accumulated in them. The main rule here is this: the smaller the surface area of the filter elements and the greater the load on the filter, the faster it clogs and the more often it needs cleaning. A more precise schedule is calculated individually in each case, depending on the parameters of the entire aquatic system as a whole.
Resorting to general cleaning (with simultaneous washing of all components of the filtration system) is desirable as rarely as possible. Of course, it is much more rational 
to open the canister, do everything necessary, and forget about the filter for a couple of months. But from the standpoint of biological expediency, such an approach is not justified. With such massive cleaning, we cause too much damage to those very microscopic organisms without which, in particular, the processes of water nitrification are unthinkable. It is no coincidence that the sponge in such systems consists of two parts, which are washed alternately. At the same time, colonies of microorganisms restore their lost potential in a much shorter time and provide high-quality filtration.
Bioceramics and spheres are washed only in parts, one-third at a time, with a 3-month interval. Every 2 months, the substrate should be washed in a basin with settled warm water, preferably aquarium water. After gentle stirring, the substrate is removed, and organic matter remains in the water. More thorough washing will wash away the bacterial layer from the substrate. To accelerate the colonization of the substrate by bacteria, companies produce universal conditioners for aquarium water. If it is necessary to disconnect the filter from the aquarium, it is connected to a vessel with clean water. Biofilters are not durable, and their tiny pores clog up; restoring them at home is practically impossible. Ceramics are replaced after 6-8 months, activated carbon after 2 months.
You should not perform a water change all at once, because along with the old material, you also get rid of the colony of beneficial bacteria formed in it. Replacement should be carried out in stages in 2-3 steps so as not to remove the colonies of active bacteria formed in it. In this case, the microorganisms remaining in the filter reservoir will quickly conquer new living space, and the filtration efficiency will be preserved. Do not neglect these recommendations, as “saving” will negatively affect the filtering capacity of the system as a whole.
During the cleaning of the aquarium filter, only the filter media needs regular cleaning, the filter itself is cleaned relatively rarely, and the design of some filters, such as airlift filters, generally eliminates the need to clean the filter, except for the filter media. The cleaning process should be as fast as possible, in a gentle mode, and only in water taken from the aquarium; tap water may contain chlorine, which kills bacteria. Why is that? It’s simple. The main value in the filter material is the colonies of bacteria involved in the biofiltration process, and the main task when cleaning the filter media is, on the one hand, to remove dirt and debris accumulated in the media, and on the other hand, to minimize harm to the bacterial colony located there.
The less damage is done to the bacteria, the faster the filter will restore its biofiltration capacity. At the same time, some old substrate should be left in the filter to preserve the bacterial culture. To monitor the operation of the biofilter, a settling tank is built into it, into which water that has undergone biological purification enters. Flakes of biological dirt settle in it, which must be siphoned out from time to time. If there is no such sediment, then biological purification is not taking place.
Sooner or later, every filter will operate on a biological principle, that is, it will be colonized by nitrifying bacteria. These bacteria only need their “workplace” to be optimally prepared. This means, firstly, that they should be left alone, and secondly, that all dirt should be diverted away from them! It is clear that the filter must be designed so that water can easily pass first through the easily and conveniently cleaned fine pre-filter mass, which is cleaned regularly, and then through a slightly coarser filter mass with the largest possible internal surface area, which is cleaned as rarely as possible, thus providing the bacteria with an optimal workplace.
Unfortunately, in many store-bought filters, this principle is not observed. People who constantly clean the filter or insert new filter material every week always have problems with high nitrite and ammonium levels because nitrification cannot get on the right track. On the other hand, hobbyists who never clean their filters are concerned about the rapidly increasing nitrate content, as all “impurities” are left for the bacteria to process.
The frequency of replacing or washing the contents of the trays depends on many factors, the dominant one being, naturally, the degree of water pollution. The easiest way to monitor the condition of the sponge, which serves mainly for the adsorption of mechanical suspension — the denser the cavities of the sponge are clogged with dirt, the weaker the water flow from the spray bar. It is more problematic to monitor the potential of ion-exchange resins and other media intended for chemical filtration. Visual perception usually does not help here; you have to use special tests. In any case, do not neglect the recommendations given in the instructions for the use of a particular filter material, although they are somewhat averaged. Ignoring deadlines usually leads to the fact that the filter turns from a water-purifying device into a water-polluting one.
Filter performance is determined not only by the level of media contamination, but also by the condition of the hoses. During operation, bacterial plaque and algae fouling form on their inner walls. They hinder the free passage of water through the hose due to the formation of additional irregularities and narrowing of the lumen. Hoses are cleaned with special brushes with stiff bristles and a wire frame. The rigid elements of the water intake and discharge circuit should be subjected to the same procedure. Since some of them have a curved shape, brushes with a flexible metal or plastic frame will come in handy.
Bacterial slime also accumulates on the rotor and impeller of the electric pump that come into contact with water. A dense layer of plaque can not only significantly reduce filtration rates, but also block the operation of the motor altogether. In addition, severe contamination of the rotor leads to a shift in its center of gravity and provokes the appearance of extraneous noise. When washing the motor, special care must be taken regarding the axis. Often it is made of fragile cermets (as least susceptible to corrosion, and also having a minimum coefficient of friction), and breaking it is as easy as pie.
Disassembly of the filter begins with removing the water intake tube from the aquarium or closing the valve (if one is used) of the corresponding hose. As soon as water stops flowing from the spray bar, the filter is disconnected from the mains. Now you can loosen the union nuts, disconnect the hoses, unclip the latches, and remove the cover with the motor block. At the same time, a small amount of water will spill out of the canister, so it is better to place a low tray under it beforehand. Reassembly is carried out in reverse order, with the difference that the hoses must be filled with water before starting the filter (if you happen to have a pump head from an old small filter lying around in your aquarium supplies, it can come in very handy here).
Sealing of the canister lid is achieved by a rubber O-ring and plastic latches. Consumers usually have no complaints about the ring (although it doesn’t hurt to have a spare one), but the latches, I must say, are very flimsy. With careless handling, they easily fail. At least, do not use them as levers to “squeeze” the lid down — first, install it in place by hand all the way, and only then snap the latches. And even better, don’t skimp and buy yourself 2-3 spares.
Materials for water filtering. Mechanical masses, Biomaterial.
So which filter should you choose? External or internal filters. 
